Contained in this section of the wiki:
CAD file for the components, panels, wiring and labels: github CAD link
Electrical components build of materials
optional kit for a 2020 based DIY enclosure
wiring length calculations and descriptions for cabling from enclosure to steppers, spindle and sensors
Enclosure AC wiring Diagrams
Enclosure DC wiring Diagrams
Enclosure Control wiring Diagrams
Wiring from Enclosure to PrintNC Steppers, Spindle and Endstop Sensors.
Older Wiring and Enclosure pages are still available as archived documents.
https://wiki.printnc.info/en/v3/wiring-archived
https://wiki.printnc.info/en/electronics/enclosure
You can order new or used electrical cabinets from ebay, vevor etc. Minimum size 16x24x8" or 400x600x200mm.
Recommended tools for adapting the enclosure to the DIY custom plates and fan mounts:
2020 T-slot Extrusion
3mm aluminum or ACM panels
Optional: Various PCBs to simplify wiring. Contact Logan BC CA on discord or order from jlcpcb.com. Details, source files and CAM files here: https://github.com/LoganFraser/PrintNCMods/tree/main/PCBs
(distance from controller to rear corner of machine + 30cm or 12")= X
X + (frameY + 30cm or 12") for Y1-Motor cable
X + (frameX + frameY + 30cm or 12") for Y2-Motor cable
X + (frameY + 60cm or 24") for X-Motor cable and Cat5/6 ethernet cable for Endstop Sensor Breakout PCB.
X + (frameX + frameY + 90cm or 36") for Z-Motor and Spindle cables.
For less frequent usage machines (under 10hrs per week) search Aliexpress for TRVVP Cable for spindle and steppers. Example: This is also available in multiconductor (3p or 4p twisted) for endstop pcbs and closed loop stepper cabling.
Wire the power cord to switch, from switch to contactor L1 L2, from contactor T1 T2 to wagos, ground from cabinet bolt to wagos. Connect wires from contactor L1 to 1-5A breaker, and L2 to A1 (coil contact)
Use 1.5mm^2/16AWG stranded core hookup wires, with insulated blue female spade connectors for power switch, ferrules for screw terminals, bare wire for wagos.
Connect wires: from 1A breaker to bottom of NC Stop, from top of NC Stop to top of NC EStop mushroom button, from bottom of NC Estop to right of Start button, from left of Start button to A2 (coil contact), from A2 to NO (L side of contactor) and from R side of Start button to NO (R side of contactor)
Use 0.5mm^2/20AWG solid core hookup wires.
At this point - Test the functionality of the Start and E-Stop buttons, ensuring the contactor engages when start is pressed and start doesn't work when the E-Stop button is latched.
Ensure your power supplies are set to your incoming voltage (110/220 switch)
Use 1.5mm^2/16AWG stranded core hookup wires, with ferrules for power supply screw terminals, bare wire for wagos.
At this point - Test the function of the power supplies outputs, and use the trim pot to adjust the output from 48V down to 45V by turning counter clockwise. If you don't have a meter, just turn fully counterclockwise. For reason, go here:
From wagos through line filter to VFD, then out to the spindle.
Recommended: Install a ferrite core over the wires between the spindle and VFD with the jacket removed. Secure with zip ties. (more details here).
Important: Confirm your pump voltage before connection. DC24V, AC110V or AC220V. The pump doesn't always match the VFD voltage.
Easy mode - Connect the AC pump wires to the Red and Blue Wagos directly. If the contactor is on, the spindle water pump will be on.
More complex AC Pump wiring
IMPORTANT: → DO NOT connect the DC- jumper between power supplies as shown. It doesn't provide any useful function and could possibly create an issue. Remove if it's installed.
Connect wires from power supply to FlexiHAL and Fan(s). Red is Positive(+) and Black is Negative (-) The upper fan should be mounted as an exhaust, and the lower as an intake.
Use 0.5mm^2/20AWG solid core hookup wires.
Wiring shown to a single driver. Connect red wire from Power Supply V+ to X Driver Vcc, and black wire from Power Supply V- to X Driver GND. Wire other drivers the same, directly from power supply to each driver.
Use 0.5mm^2/20AWG solid core hookup wires
Use IDC cable from Flexi to Drivers. Strip about 10mm of IDC cable and fold the wires back over the jacket before crimping on the ferrule for better connection. Duplicate for the rest.
For individual wires - Connect X Step (S+/-) on Flexihal to Pulse (+/-) on X Driver. Connect X Direction (D+/-) to Dir (+/-) on X Driver. Repeat for other drivers.
OR: Use 4 wire dupont, de-pin and install in 4 pin socket. Ensure wiring and polarity is correct.
OR: Use Driver Keys. Details here: Driver Keys
Use extra length from your stepper to driver cable to connect between the optional screw cabinet disconnect screw terminals.
OR: Use cable passthroughs or cable glands and connect the stepper motors directly to the driver screw terminals.
Use twisted pair from Flexihal (A & B) to RS+/RS- on the VFD for RS485 (A to RS+ and B to RS-). Recommended: Add ferrite bead and/or rs485 isolator if having communication issues.
From VFD to Control Panel, use 5x2 IDC cable with 1 end rotated, or pull the socket off the display and rotate 180 degrees.
RJ45 ethernet cat5/6 from Flexihal endstop connector to sensor breakout pcb mounted on gantry.
Important: In the default configuration, Flexihal requires both the USB-C cable connected to the PC and the 24V DC power supply connected and powered on for the Flexihal to operate, due to signal isolation. The optional Jog2k pendant also requires the USB-C cable to be connected for power. There are jumpers on the controller to change the 5V source, check the github for details (recommended for advanced users only).
The A endstop and A stepper driver is used for Y2 on the printNC.
If you're connecting a toolsetter directly to the controller to save running the cable backwards through the Y cable chain, then use the Probe input (not the Tool) as there's a mislabel on the Flexihal.
For use with Expatria's Sensor Breakout PCB, nothing additional is required. For use with Design by Logan's Gantry and Toolhead pcbs, the resistor pcb goes into the probe input and the toolsetter connects between Signal(S) and Ground(G)
A+/A- connects to one coil of the stepper motor and B+/B- connects to the other coil. Wiring guides included with steppers are often not accurate, so it's best to test the stepper coil pairs -
either by connecting 2 wires together and trying to turn the stepper (a closed loop connected to a coil will make the stepper harder to turn) or a multimeter on continuity (ohms) setting.
Polarity of the connection doesn't matter. Just check the direction of the motor rotation and if it doesn't match the intended rotation, swap two wires at the driver (typically A+/A- are red/blue, but wiring varies by stepper so test instead of assuming it's correct)
The following settings are for the stock 3.0A steppers included with the kit and PETg printed mounts. If you have metal motor mounts you can increase the current a bit but watch for skipped steps and overheating.
XY is set differently than Z because the ballscrews are 10mm per rotation for XY and 4mm per rotation for Z. In Grblhal set 100 steps per mm for all axis.
A switch is ON when pushed down/towards the back of the driver. Switch 4 for half current is when driver is idle, less current is used to allow the steppers to stay cooler when not moving.
The following wire runs are used in the PrintNC from Electronics Enclosure to PrintNC frame, using the estimated lengths from https://wiki.printnc.info/en/v3/wiring#wires