For each of your six linear carriage block bearings (HGW20CC):
- grab yourself an unused rail (z axis rail)
- loosen rubber wipers
- remove most of the shipping grease
- remove plastic retainer
- douse with alcohol
- articulate bearings with a metal pick of some kind
- replace retainer
- slide onto rail pushing out plastic retainer (set aside)
- slide on a rail back and forth
- slide off rail and onto plastic retainer (one continuous smooth slow motion)
- clean sludge off rail
- repeat above step until carriage moves reasonably on rail
- on the last cycle through, while the carriage is on the rail:
- remove a center screw
- attach a zerk fitting
- tighten the wiper screws
- pump full of white lithium until it squeezes out
- re-loosen the wiper screws again
- leave the zerk fitting in
- slide off rail onto plastic retainer and set aside
No, it doesn't come pre-drilled. You drill for an m5 but no tap required?
The ball screw nut comes on the rail - at no point do we take it off. Never-ever take it off. Don't do it. Hundreds of ball bearings will go all over your floor. You will likely not be able to put them back on.
Screw through the rails into the plate.
This and all other operations in this section happen on the side of the Z axis plate with the channel hollowed out of it.
The side of the plate with the rails flush is the bottom of the Z-axis.
¶ 3. Attach the ball screw nut block onto ball screw nut and screw down
- Turn the ball screw until it is roughly in the middle of the ball screw.
- Slide the printed ball screw nut block onto the ball screw.
- I had to very lightly sand the inside of this (with very fine sand-paper) to get it to fit. It was still super-snug.
- Screw through the ball screw nut into the ball screw nut block.
- I had to heat these screws to get them to purchase before they would screw in? Once it was in just a little bit it tightened just fine.
- Over-tightening these seems like a risk? Probably don't do that?
- Should these get lock-tite?
¶ 4. Place a carriage bearing block (HGW20CC) on each of the two rails and tighten wiper screws
This pushes the plastic retainer off in the process. Probably a good idea to hang onto this plastic retainer.
- Place the z axis screw + nut block assembly onto the plate between the rails with the threaded end pointing toward the top of the z-axis plate.
- Slide the two carriages below to get them out of the way if necessary, but take care they don't come off the rails.
- Slide the carriages up along side, place Z axis face plate on top (with screw insets-side facing out).
- Place the face plate on top of the two carriages and tnut block so that all the screw holes align.
- Screw through z axis face plate into t nut block
- Screw through z axis face plate into carriages.
- Don't lock-tite te non-recessed screws here - they are temporary and will be removed when we attach the spindle clamp later on.
- Place the BK10 against the Z backplate - it sits in in the groove at the top of the plate. The raised side of the BK10 block points up. On the model that comes with the kit, this makes the BK10 text upside down.
- Might as well go ahead and do a quick dry fit of the Z-Motor Mount then take it right back offoff.
- With the BK10 in position on the Z plate shove ball screw up through BK10 mount as far as it will go.
- Screw nut that came with BK10 onto the end of the ball screw to hold it in place.
- Don't forget your lok-tite.
- Ball screw will rotate, so you will need to hold it at the bottom while you do this.
- Tighten the set screw too.
- Screw through the front face of the Z-Motor mount, through the BK10 mount, and into the backplate to simultaneously attach both the Z-Motor mount and BK10 mount to the backplate.
- losen the set screws on both side of the ball screw coupler
- place the ball screw coupler to the lead screw but do not tighten
- place motor on top and screw down tightly.
- Position the coupler over the join between the ball screw and the motor and tighten both set screws.
- wires facing…which way?
- forward to attach to the barrier-strip?
- tighten the set screws on the coupler
- Screw on the two front-mounted printed Spindle Trams
- Screw on the printed Z Endstop Sensor Mount
Big question/core-concept - does the L and /or tube go on the Z-axis or does the z axis backplate attach to these items???
First guess is:
- pre-completed Z roller assembly w/ HGW20CC placed in middle of rail during Y axis assembly
- screw z roller assembly to back of z-axis
- screw tramming bar onto back of z axis
- screw tramming bar into z roller assembly
- screw L bracket to back of z axis